Things to Do in Port Barton, Palawan: Part 2 (Why Port Barton Beats Coron and El Nido)

by Shawi Cortez
Having enjoyed the no-rush itinerary we had the previous day, we booked Dong again for a whole-day island hopping.

Because it was standard for the packaged boat trips in Coron and El Nido to include lunch, we arranged for it to be included.

Dong was easy to transact with. We closed the whole day trip to P1,000, but we had to buy the ingredients from the market (fish, rice, fruits, seasoning, charcoal and 6 liters of water added up to P350).

buying fish

this is THE fish market

Our day started around 11am, went to the  market with Dong to buy fish and the other stuff needed for lunch, and headed for the water.

My travel partner's interest in snakes led an earlier conversation with Dong to take us to the mangroves today. We traveled around 30 minutes before reaching the mangroves. Soon, our boatman drove slowly and turned his engine off. He paddled as we reached the inner portion of the mangroves, and we kept our eyes peeled for the black-and-yellow striped snakes.

paddling slowly : mangroves

"How do we spot them? Are they really visible?," a curious me asked.

"They usually rest on the branches and do not hide," Dong replied.

As he was speaking, I slowly lifted my head to the branch above us, and there it was! Fear crept in an instant, so I hid under our boat's tarp-covering.

What if it suddenly drops? I definitely do not want to be bitten by a poisonous snake in a foreign place!

snake spotting

We continued our journey to spot more snakes, but only saw three other on the way before making our way back.

After that scare-rush, Dong took us to another snorkel area called Aquarium Reef. Just like the previous day, it did not disappoint. Just like the Twin Reef we snorkeled to earlier, they have such a rich and diverse marine life.

Late lunch was supposed to be served and prepared in German Island, but upon his recommendation that there's a better place for picnic, we trusted his local advice.

Dong docked our boat in Paradise Island where only a couple arrived ahead of us and already cooling down the beach.

We settled in one of the 3 hammocks while our boatman got busy preparing the fire to grill the fish and cook the rice.

lazing underneath this hammock while our boatman prepared lunch

After the simple but appetizing and delectable meal, we each had our own time to ourselves, taking in the beauty of the island, relaxing under the shady hammock, with a cup of coffee in hand (Yes, the island's caretaker offered their coffee gratis). We almost lost track of time until Dong prompted us to get going before it got dark.

Paradise Island: who wouldn't lose track of time when this is the view?

We left as the sun was setting, and left with a smile on our faces, happy that our time was unhurried and had the itinerary as we wanted it.

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Things to Do in Port Barton, Palawan: Part 1

by Shawi Cortez

After being in Coron and El Nido, and having a wide array of package tours to choose from, I expected to have the same choices in Port Barton.

It turns out that the packaged boat trips here are more expensive than my budget would allow me.

Good thing, I met Dong earlier. Instead of the money going to middle men and tour operators, hiring the boatman himself assures that he brings home the entire amount (less fuel expense), which allows him to give a top-notch and impeccable service.

pristine white beach of Port Barton

boatman Dong, prepping the ride

oh yeah, the walk way from Itaytay Inn to the beach

how's this? Port Barton

   
I shared the boat with a fellow traveler, and together we embarked on a private tour all to ourselves. The maximum Dong's boat can handle is 4 pax, himself included.

As I tried to do my best bargaining and reasoning out that we already arrived late in Port Barton and there's not much else to see and do with the remaining time, we closed the deal at P600.

It only took us several minutes to change to our swimsuits, so we were out by 2:30pm.

The boat ride took approximately 20 minutes to bring us to Twin Reef, one of the more popular snorkel areas in Port Barton.

well Hello yacht!

Thinking I've already seen them all, I deeply regret not taking the camera with me.
Even if it was a little cloudy, the water was still clear to see some corals and schools of fish.
I never expected to see such a diverse marine life. Combine what I saw in Coron and El Nido, and it's still not enough compared to how much I saw in Port Barton!

A little over an hour was enough to satisfy my snorkel-lust (if ever there's such a word). We immediately hopped to go to our next destination, Bigaho Falls.

shoreline to the waterfalls

8-minute walk to the waterfalls

We rode to the other side of the main land and upon reaching the shore, it only took us 8 minutes to hike and behold the waterfalls.

Welcome to Bigaho Falls

What's unique with this waterfalls is that it's a bit prepped up. Stones were cut to create a pathway. They're rebuilding a picnic area, which was hit by a typhoon a year ago.

picnic area

inviting Bigaho Waterfalls

For this effort, they ask for some donation. Nearby, is the home of a local who's also in charge of taking care of the area. He transformed his backyard into a home-y garden, having a wide array of fruit trees and ornamental plants.

caretaker

i cannot resist having my picture taken with this native couch

yes the old man cares for these lovely orchids

Out of the blue, travel partner had a craving for fresh coconut. We asked the caretaker because we saw some hanging in his backyard. He gladly picked one for each us, and we enjoyed it while sitting on a hammock, and his native couch.

refreshing buko juice break

more buko!

We left refreshed as the sun was beginning to set.

Before heading home, I asked Dong to drop by the sandbar I saw earlier. Puting Buhangin is not as pristine as I had expected it to be, but we spotted stray jellyfish and broken corals.

the sandbar "Puting Buhangin"

stray jellyfish

jellie, you're so near!

leaving the sandbar and the sunset behind

Our day ended without any rush, and a relaxing break from the itinerary-packed tour groups.

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Itaytay Inn: Budget Accommodation in Port Barton, Palawan

by Shawi Cortez

Remember the story of Dong?

"We're at Itaytay Inn already," he nudged me.

When I got off the jeep to take a look at this affordable lodge, I almost instantly fell in love with it.

Why do I love thee? Let me count the ways.

Spacious balcony. You'll never feel cramped even if you share the inn with other travelers. It's a good location to sit back, hang out, and share your travel stories with other like-minded backpackers.

staircase leading to my room

fresh air breezes in the spacious balcony

Hot water. Hot water in a thermos bottle is a commodity for backpackers. For that afternoon tea, or that quick morning coffee when you don't have time to grab breakfast to leave early for island hopping.

zoom in the thermos.

Hangers. To me, next to clothesline, hangers for the wet clothes after a day out in the beach is a necessity. Every beach resort should have this! Agree?

for your swimwear and anything wet

Shower. They may be in the rural areas of Palawan, but they digress from the typical Filipino way of bathing and washing oneself. Instead of a dipper and pail, they have a shower. No hot water though. But after being soaked under the sun the entire day, who would need hot water for shower? Oh yeah, the water's fresh. Compared to the tap water of El Nido and Coron, which still has a saltwater taste, Port Barton's is fresh. You wanna know why? Because they have a nearby waterfalls where they source it from [Full details of Begaho Falls to come].

shower from freshwater

Hammock. Need I say more? This adds to the charm and the authentic feel that you're on vacation, and in the province. Let down your hair, and let the wind blow on your face.

relax in their hammock anytime

Lined with trash bins. Just because.

trashbin #1

trashbin #2

It may not be beach front, but it's literally a 2-minute walk to the beach.

Oh, and did I tell you, even if it's officially the peak season, their rates are still negotiable.
Sshhh, don't tell others I haggled it down to P300/room.

like most rooms in Palawan, it comes with a mosquito net

so much space for my single backpack!

Contact Itaytay Inn:
09105411284
09052204750

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Port Barton: Watch Out For This Man

by Shawi Cortez

We watched as the oversized jeepney that plies from Roxas to Port Barton pass by in front of us.

A scary thought occurred: "Did I just let that jeep leave with all my bags inside? Laptop included?!"
My heart was pounding faster by the minute, and worry overcame me as the time ticked by so slowly.

==

Few minutes before I stood in front of the jeepney, Dong, the local I talked to earlier said, "Ma'm, don't worry, they're just gonna gas up. They can't leave us, because I'm going to Port Barton as well."

"OK," I smiled back. Our conversation revolved around travelers coming from El Nido, and how the RORO bus drivers are trying to deceive them into getting off at San Jose, instead of in Roxas.

"It's good that you decided to get off here. If you followed the drivers' advice, there are no jeepneys that stop there. You will be forced to take a motorcycle and pay a minimum of P600 just to bring you to Barton," he added.

"This fellow sounds like a nice guy. He's looking after the travelers' sake," I thought.

===

The moment I reached Roxas at 10am, after the 4-hour bus ride from El Nido, I instantly ran to the canteen in the terminal where the Port Barton jeepney usually parks.

get off at Roxas, not San Jose

It only took a few minutes until it arrived and unloaded the passengers. When I confirmed with the conductor about the departure time for Barton, he replied, "Around 11:30, so you still have enough time to take your lunch."

Immediately, and almost in a whisper, he asked if I already had a place to stay.

"None, and I plan to ask around when I get there," I responded .

"I know a place around P500, are you interested?"

"Sure," I said, thinking that it's already cheaper than the P600 I paid for in El Nido.

I took my time eating my brunch, knowing that the jeep's not yet leaving soon. Later on, the conductor came back and asked if I have an itinerary already. Same answer. None.

Soon after eating, he introduced me to Dong, another local who also happens to be a boatman. I asked about the rates and the destinations. He mentioned an amount and left me to think.

He also asked about my lodging. I said, "Oh, the conductor said he knows a P500 place, but actually it's a bit expensive for me as I am looking for a cheaper accommodation. In Coron, I found a room that's only P350, and it's located in the center."

Also in a whisper, he said, "I know a place that charges P350, in Itaytay Inn. It's near my house."

With that, I almost leaped! Woohooe! Is this my day or not? But of course I didn't show my elation, even if I was already jumping for joy inside.

"OK, I'll take a look at it first." He seemed to be helpful and honest.

After that conversation, he took his lunch, together with the driver and the conductor.
Soon as they finished, the other two started to get up, while Dong gulped his glass of water.

==

waiting for this larger than usual jeepney to arrive

Fast forward to where I was left standing, looking at my watch by the minute, I was at the point of panicking.

Almost in a complaint, I blurted out, "Why is it taking them so long. Is the gasoline station so far away?"

What if they already left for Port Barton, and it was just a ploy to make me take the expensive motorcycle?! What if they steal my stuff and sell my laptop?!
Not wanting to let my anxiety show, I began to remind myself:

"I believe in the kindness of strangers. I believe in the kindness of strangers. I believe in the kindness of strangers. I believe in the kindness of strangers."

Dong is a kind man, he will not take advantage of me.
Dong is a kind man, he will not take advantage of me.
Dong is a kind man, he will not take advantage of me.

Thirty minutes.

I let out a sigh of relief the moment I saw the familiar jeep park in front of me.
Thank You God!

So the local people are real. And kind. I'm just the skeptic and paranoid traveler. I hope they remain the same and not be tainted, should the tourism industry in Barton booms.

That's just the beginning of a beautiful time in Port Barton.

inside the jeepney to Port Barton

Why should you watch out for Dong?

He happens to be most helpful, and based on experience, he's making an honest living out of serving the travelers, and he does not take advantage of us by overpricing.

Dong or Johnny

Contact him here: 09302872146

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Dumaguete: Not Your Usual Things to Do

Our plane touched down Dumaguete and our CouchSurfing host promised to pick us up at the airport. The airport was already nearly empty since most of the passengers have left and we were the only ones there. After a quick call, we learned that he was still in bed, nursing a hangover, but promised to be with us within 5 minutes.

And there he was in his trusty ol' car. After the short pleasantries, we instantly headed to the public market to have a local breakfast of puto and native coffee. It was fascinating to witness the rhythms of how they served it. Puto, which is actually glutinous rice, is served on a saucer, and on the side, the delectable liquid cocoa topping is on a separate cup. Eating it is very interactive. You have to pour the chocolate on top of the puto and enjoy it in small bites, while slowly downing your cup of native coffee with it.

puto stall in Dumaguete

the art of breakfast: puto at natib kape

We didn't go far, because soon as we finished, we just crossed over the market to grab some fresh fish for our seaside lunch. Since our host is a renowned chef (he actually does not like being called a chef), he is quite proud of the Dumaguete market as one of the liveliest fish markets in the Philippines. And yes he knows his craft, as he is buddies with the fish mongers already, giving him discounts and that special cut for the kinilaw and the inihaw. 

Dumaguete's lively fish market

our host sizing up the freshness of the fish

Off to his friend's beach house. We were welcomed by Berto in his rustic, beach themed home. Our morning was spent preparing lunch. While the others were getting the fire ready for the barbecue, I felt honored to help out my host prep his "world-class" kinilaw. Rinse the fish with calamansi, not with water. Add fresh coconut milk. Season. Top it with fresh lettuce, chicharon, and peanuts for that extra crunch. Serve.

the world class "kinilaw" I helped prepare

our seaside lunch

Soon, we were joined by some Russian Couchsurfers who have made Dumaguete their second home. It was interesting to find out that they're living a comfortable life here in the Philippines, surviving mainly through their apartment rental in Moscow, blogs, and internet gigs. It was a new concept for me, and opened up the idea that anything is possible and it can be done. Besides, the Philippines is a lovely country to be in specially if you're a nature lover, and the cost of living is not really that expensive when you're earning in other currency. 

pair the kinilaw with "Bahalina".
enjoying my glass of bahalina to the dregs.

The rest of the day was spent just chilling-- either playing a pool of billiards, chit chatting, taking a dip by the sea, drinking some tuba or bahalina. "Bahalina" is the local alcoholic drink, which is actually sweet. Don't be fooled. Behind the sweet taste, is a slow creeping traitor. You'll want more of it thinking there's no alcohol, until boom! You've already been hit. We capped the day by setting up a bonfire, and dozing off as we  enjoyed the sound of the soft ocean waves crashing the shore. 

the lovely beach house where we stayed
photo by: ©Masha of traveliving.org

Dumaguete bonfire
photo by: ©Masha of traveliving.org

I know some bloggers would give you a list of top things to do in Dumaguete--visit Silliman University or stroll along the Boulevard. Well, I'm not that kind. Because I haven't done those. 

For me, this culture immersion would still top the charts in terms of things to do in Duma. 

Your turn, what other thing have you done in Dumaguete?

This is Cheap Travel for Women's entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers' September 2012 Blog Carnival themed "The Visayas Roundup".

Hosted by Ding, The Pinoy Explorer.

CLICK on the Carnival Logo to read the other PTB Blog Carnival themes and entries.

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