Romantic Italy: For the Backpacker and Keen on Off-the-Beaten-Paths

by Shawi Cortez

It's my first time to step foot in Europe. The past weeks, all I have seen are buildings and castles that Europe is known for. To me, they have already lost their allure and I could not appreciate another if you take me to one.

But you insist. You say, "This is different." I believe you.

In the first place, I wonder why you took me to Napoli. Although Naples is one of the largest cities in Italy, it has quite a  bad rep for its garbage. Yes, the garbage that are left sprawled on the streets, and never picked up for days.

As we hike up to Castel Sant'Elmo, I muttered, "This is no different than the other castles."

You eye me hesitantly, seeing the expression on my face. Instead of frowning, you try to encourage me with a faint smile.

We reach the courtyard and climb a bit more until we are on the top of castle. There are a handful other visitors, as the castle is closing soon. A smile breaks my grumbling expression. And you know you are right bringing me here.

I let the wind blow on my face. I fell silent. But you already know that my silence means I am happy. You know that after all the endless buildings I have seen, I would appreciate the sight of a volcano, and the sea would make me feel at home.

"I have another surprise for you," you announced. "But you have to wait until tomorrow."

The following day, you told me to meet you at the jetty. 

You're already waiting when I arrived, and proudly showed off two tickets for a ride to Isola di Capri. We take the almost 2-hour ride to Capri, and as we crossed the waters to the island, I think about your choice. Why Napoli, not Venice? Why Capri, instead of the more popular Sorrento or Amalfi Coast? Then it hit me. I was tickled pink that you remembered. I only mentioned it once, but you never forgot that I said I prefer off-the-beaten destinations over crowded places. I smile at the thought.

As the ferry docked, we do not waste any more time and head towards the funicular. The crowd was beginning to build. We reach the top and the view just took my breath away. I never imagined this place could be so beautiful. I am at a loss for words as I see hues of blues and greens. The sky is clear, the water is a mix hue of blue and turquoise with dashes of white brought about by the boats sailing by. The weather pleasantly warm.

"Come," you said as you reach out your hand to hold mine. We stopped by a bakery and you ordered some sandwich and bottle of drinks. We left soon as they handed you the bag, while I was left puzzled wondering why didn't sit down to eat. 

"It's a lovely day for a walk," you said trying to ignore my quizzical look. And indeed it is. We pass by the posh shops and are led to the narrow streets. Taking the footpath via Tragara, we soon reach the viewdeck to "Faraglione" We take a moment to enjoy the view and walk back to the fork and explore the other trail.

viewdeck

The natural path is becoming steep but we are soon covered by the leaves of the trees. It is a welcome treat, as the sun is scorching in high noon. We reach "Arco Naturale" and bask in its beauty. 

Arco Naturale

We find a shaded area and you take out our lunch. I sigh. Nothing beats sharing a meal over a view of the seascape. The hearty meal and the warm breeze makes me drowsy so you signal me to lay my head on your lap. I fall asleep instantly.

I rouse from my sleep by a hand on my shoulder. I turn around to see my sister. I'm not in Italy, but in my bedroom in Ilocos, Philippines.

"You slept in front of your laptop again," she gently reminded me.

And I remember, I still have to finish this post and beat the deadline.

in Capri, Italy. 2011.

This is my entry to the February 2013 Carnival of Europe hosted by Aleah Taboclaon of Solitary Wanderer with the theme "Most Romantic Places in Europe".

Google

Read More

Dumaguete: Not Your Usual Things to Do

Our plane touched down Dumaguete and our CouchSurfing host promised to pick us up at the airport. The airport was already nearly empty since most of the passengers have left and we were the only ones there. After a quick call, we learned that he was still in bed, nursing a hangover, but promised to be with us within 5 minutes.

And there he was in his trusty ol' car. After the short pleasantries, we instantly headed to the public market to have a local breakfast of puto and native coffee. It was fascinating to witness the rhythms of how they served it. Puto, which is actually glutinous rice, is served on a saucer, and on the side, the delectable liquid cocoa topping is on a separate cup. Eating it is very interactive. You have to pour the chocolate on top of the puto and enjoy it in small bites, while slowly downing your cup of native coffee with it.

puto stall in Dumaguete

the art of breakfast: puto at natib kape

We didn't go far, because soon as we finished, we just crossed over the market to grab some fresh fish for our seaside lunch. Since our host is a renowned chef (he actually does not like being called a chef), he is quite proud of the Dumaguete market as one of the liveliest fish markets in the Philippines. And yes he knows his craft, as he is buddies with the fish mongers already, giving him discounts and that special cut for the kinilaw and the inihaw. 

Dumaguete's lively fish market

our host sizing up the freshness of the fish

Off to his friend's beach house. We were welcomed by Berto in his rustic, beach themed home. Our morning was spent preparing lunch. While the others were getting the fire ready for the barbecue, I felt honored to help out my host prep his "world-class" kinilaw. Rinse the fish with calamansi, not with water. Add fresh coconut milk. Season. Top it with fresh lettuce, chicharon, and peanuts for that extra crunch. Serve.

the world class "kinilaw" I helped prepare

our seaside lunch

Soon, we were joined by some Russian Couchsurfers who have made Dumaguete their second home. It was interesting to find out that they're living a comfortable life here in the Philippines, surviving mainly through their apartment rental in Moscow, blogs, and internet gigs. It was a new concept for me, and opened up the idea that anything is possible and it can be done. Besides, the Philippines is a lovely country to be in specially if you're a nature lover, and the cost of living is not really that expensive when you're earning in other currency. 

pair the kinilaw with "Bahalina".
enjoying my glass of bahalina to the dregs.

The rest of the day was spent just chilling-- either playing a pool of billiards, chit chatting, taking a dip by the sea, drinking some tuba or bahalina. "Bahalina" is the local alcoholic drink, which is actually sweet. Don't be fooled. Behind the sweet taste, is a slow creeping traitor. You'll want more of it thinking there's no alcohol, until boom! You've already been hit. We capped the day by setting up a bonfire, and dozing off as we  enjoyed the sound of the soft ocean waves crashing the shore. 

the lovely beach house where we stayed
photo by: ©Masha of traveliving.org

Dumaguete bonfire
photo by: ©Masha of traveliving.org

I know some bloggers would give you a list of top things to do in Dumaguete--visit Silliman University or stroll along the Boulevard. Well, I'm not that kind. Because I haven't done those. 

For me, this culture immersion would still top the charts in terms of things to do in Duma. 

Your turn, what other thing have you done in Dumaguete?

This is Cheap Travel for Women's entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers' September 2012 Blog Carnival themed "The Visayas Roundup".

Hosted by Ding, The Pinoy Explorer.

CLICK on the Carnival Logo to read the other PTB Blog Carnival themes and entries.

Read More

Central Asia: Dreaming of Stan

We first met when I saw the movie "Borat".

Remember the quirky reporter who wore a screaming neon green bikini, er man-kini? His zany journalism style brought out the best (uhm, most of the time worst) in American ethics. This movie displays Borat's "cultural learnings of America for make benefit glorious nation of Kazakhstan".

KazakhSTAN? I never knew there was such a country! 

Read More

5 Year Old Girl Goes to Saudi, Then More

I was 5 years old, and my sister was 7.

It was our second trip to Saudi Arabia, but that summer, we were to go there by ourselves. Mom and our younger brother already went ahead to visit dad. All throughout the flight, our knees wobbled, until the time we were to deplane. From the plane to the immigration, a flight attendant was by our side. It was only when I saw a familiar face, that of my parents', did I breathe a sigh of relief.

Read More